We made it to Puerto Vallarta in good time, though the road was all over the place. From Tepic down, we wound back and forth through beautiful rolling farmland - learned the fine art of passing cars in Mexico (they could give a damn about the lines between lanes). Once we arrived, we made our way to the Oasis Hostel, the first place of its kind on our trip. It was nothing short of wonderful - free breakfast and internet, good conversation, and a short journey to anywhere in the city. For a little under $30 a night, we got a private room for two days and began meeting our fellow travelers.
There was David, the aging British movie producer who had lost his wallet at the airport and was waiting to hear from his friend in Baghdad about a Western Union wire. He had a hand in producing "The Life of David Gale" among others, which is one of our favorite movies! We also met Jo, Jess, and Charlie - three girls from the UK who were touring Mexico and Central America by backpack. We got a chance to go on a snorkeling excursion with them - unfortunately the water at Los Arcos (the arches) was a little less than optimal. Okay, it was terrible - like diving in pond water - but the day was still quite fun getting to know the girls. We also met a guy named Ben from Buffalo, NY who was on somewhat of a 'vacation yet to be decided.' He had landed in Puerto Vallarta for the time, but he was planning on making his way to Puerto Escondido on the south shore at some point. After a night of chit-chat, we offered to give him a ride around the coast in exchange for his portion of the cost.
The city of Puerto Vallarta was quite beautiful - old buildings, cobblestone streets, and such - but it was rather touristy. After the fifth teeshirt shop in a row sporting "I ate the worm!" type goods, we kind of lost interest. To us, the town really shined because of the people we met.
On our second night, we took out our mini-BBQ, went to the grocery store, and got all the fixings for kabobs. The Brits pitched in with a huge salad, and we all sat on the roof overlooking the city and ate until we were stuffed.
The following morning, we got an early start and set out along the coast, our new passanger in tow... Lets just say the first day of travel was really enjoyable... We wound through small towns (you could hold your breath and pass through them before you had to let it go), bought some CDs for Ben's stereo, and chatted about the things that brought us to this place. Unfortunately, after that, his true colors began to show. I don't even know how to explain the extent of his obnoxiousness! I think it all started when he explained that he, a 29 year old, was no longer dating anyone over 30; in fact, his ideal girl would be a 16 year old whom he could ' show the world,' who would love him for it, and never leave because of her complete dependence on him... The conversation just went down hill from there - the merits of prostitutes, the complete idiocy of all Mexicans, their lack of ability to keep anything clean, his need to buy a machete for protection (when we haven't had ANY trouble)... By the end, with Ben weilding a large blade out the window to 'ward off would-be bandidos' and Thai threatening to kick him out of the car, I got the pleasure of chauffering us silently through the most beautiful and remote part of Mexico.
And it was beautiful... From Puerto Vallarta, we drove to Manzanillo, then onto Lazaro Caredas, Zihuantanejo, Acapulco, and finally arrived in Peurto Escondido last night. We stayed at the cheapest places we could find - anything from $30 all the way down to $14 for all three of us. We made a game of food, finding the local hangouts rather than paying inflated prices in other restaurants.
Our first two stops were rather nondescript. Manzanillo has a bit of a touristy feel, but not much, and Lazaro Cardenas has none. Ben and I (Andy) made our way to a local bar in LC where we listened to a couple local teen rock bands cover American hits (the first American music we had heard since leaving the states), but that was all that was happening on a Friday night. Acapulco, we found, is past its prime - trash everywhere, dirty water, deteriorating high rise hotels. We stayed outside the bay mostly - saw the cliff diving show and explored Puerto Marques, the local place to get away from the hype.
Yesterday, we pulled into Puerto Escondido, found a place - Hostal Shalom - for $6/person a night, and went about separating ourselves from Ben. Although we are still staying in the same dorm room as him, the added freedom to roam apart has made it a much more livable situation. We went snorkeling at nearby Playa Manzanillo last night at sunset - the first real snorkeling that Thai has ever seen (Los Arcos does NOT count). We even saw a few manta rays among the rocks! Then we capped the evening off by going to a bar with some newfound friends from the UK, Spain, and Canada. Today the plan is to rent a couple of surf boards ($8 for the whole day!) and explore Playa Camarizalillo where the waves are supposed to be the best. Anyways, I'm burning precious daylight writing all this out, so I need to get going. Love to all! Hasta proximo!
There was David, the aging British movie producer who had lost his wallet at the airport and was waiting to hear from his friend in Baghdad about a Western Union wire. He had a hand in producing "The Life of David Gale" among others, which is one of our favorite movies! We also met Jo, Jess, and Charlie - three girls from the UK who were touring Mexico and Central America by backpack. We got a chance to go on a snorkeling excursion with them - unfortunately the water at Los Arcos (the arches) was a little less than optimal. Okay, it was terrible - like diving in pond water - but the day was still quite fun getting to know the girls. We also met a guy named Ben from Buffalo, NY who was on somewhat of a 'vacation yet to be decided.' He had landed in Puerto Vallarta for the time, but he was planning on making his way to Puerto Escondido on the south shore at some point. After a night of chit-chat, we offered to give him a ride around the coast in exchange for his portion of the cost.
The city of Puerto Vallarta was quite beautiful - old buildings, cobblestone streets, and such - but it was rather touristy. After the fifth teeshirt shop in a row sporting "I ate the worm!" type goods, we kind of lost interest. To us, the town really shined because of the people we met.
On our second night, we took out our mini-BBQ, went to the grocery store, and got all the fixings for kabobs. The Brits pitched in with a huge salad, and we all sat on the roof overlooking the city and ate until we were stuffed.
The following morning, we got an early start and set out along the coast, our new passanger in tow... Lets just say the first day of travel was really enjoyable... We wound through small towns (you could hold your breath and pass through them before you had to let it go), bought some CDs for Ben's stereo, and chatted about the things that brought us to this place. Unfortunately, after that, his true colors began to show. I don't even know how to explain the extent of his obnoxiousness! I think it all started when he explained that he, a 29 year old, was no longer dating anyone over 30; in fact, his ideal girl would be a 16 year old whom he could ' show the world,' who would love him for it, and never leave because of her complete dependence on him... The conversation just went down hill from there - the merits of prostitutes, the complete idiocy of all Mexicans, their lack of ability to keep anything clean, his need to buy a machete for protection (when we haven't had ANY trouble)... By the end, with Ben weilding a large blade out the window to 'ward off would-be bandidos' and Thai threatening to kick him out of the car, I got the pleasure of chauffering us silently through the most beautiful and remote part of Mexico.
And it was beautiful... From Puerto Vallarta, we drove to Manzanillo, then onto Lazaro Caredas, Zihuantanejo, Acapulco, and finally arrived in Peurto Escondido last night. We stayed at the cheapest places we could find - anything from $30 all the way down to $14 for all three of us. We made a game of food, finding the local hangouts rather than paying inflated prices in other restaurants.
Our first two stops were rather nondescript. Manzanillo has a bit of a touristy feel, but not much, and Lazaro Cardenas has none. Ben and I (Andy) made our way to a local bar in LC where we listened to a couple local teen rock bands cover American hits (the first American music we had heard since leaving the states), but that was all that was happening on a Friday night. Acapulco, we found, is past its prime - trash everywhere, dirty water, deteriorating high rise hotels. We stayed outside the bay mostly - saw the cliff diving show and explored Puerto Marques, the local place to get away from the hype.
Yesterday, we pulled into Puerto Escondido, found a place - Hostal Shalom - for $6/person a night, and went about separating ourselves from Ben. Although we are still staying in the same dorm room as him, the added freedom to roam apart has made it a much more livable situation. We went snorkeling at nearby Playa Manzanillo last night at sunset - the first real snorkeling that Thai has ever seen (Los Arcos does NOT count). We even saw a few manta rays among the rocks! Then we capped the evening off by going to a bar with some newfound friends from the UK, Spain, and Canada. Today the plan is to rent a couple of surf boards ($8 for the whole day!) and explore Playa Camarizalillo where the waves are supposed to be the best. Anyways, I'm burning precious daylight writing all this out, so I need to get going. Love to all! Hasta proximo!